Sunday, August 12, 2012
Fairbanks
Fairbanks Gold & Riverboat
Fairbanks isn't known for its scenery but they've found a way to tap the tourism industry regardless. This morning we headed to an abandoned gold mine where we could(attempt to) pan for gold. At one time, the operation used state of the art technology to reclaim the precious metal out of the local gravel. Quite a feat for the times, the process required thawing the permafrost, moving thousands of tons of material and millions of gallons of water through the equipment to capture the treasure. Steady output of gold continued from the 1920 through 1959. Most of the bricks ended up in Ft Knox.
We each got a small bag of material and our guides tutored us in the technique. I let our helper Alex swirl mine for fear I would lose it all. Combined, Rick and I had $33 worth of flakes. I have a gold charm bracelet that I add to when we travel. I wasn't sure what kind of charm to get because I already have an Alaska state charm. This was perfect! I bought a gold locket which holds the bling.
The Alaska Pipeline Snakes down the hillside and we parked near it at the gold mine. We walked under it to get to the mine. In the 1970's the pipeline created its own 'gold rush' with workers earning maybe $1000 per week. The money fed the local economy but also raised the cost of living in itself, which is already higher from utilities to groceries. Not a small portion of those wages landed in the hands of "women of negotiable affection'. Interestingly, the crude oil ends up on the west coast of the Lower 48 with little or no oil refining here in Alaska. Not sure why but I'm guessing it has to do with the cold weather 9 months of the year.
The weather for us so far has been very mild, highs in the low 70s and lows in the high 40s. Our guides all comment that winter is on its way. It was beautiful today with clear skies and decent temps. From the gold mine we headed back to the Chena River, this time on a paddle wheel boat. Lunch at the facility, again, very efficient, tasty and hearty. They shuffled us into a huge dining room with long tables and benches. Cast iron kettles held Beef stew and potato peek soup, served with biscuits, iced tea and blueberry muffins.
From there we loaded onto the paddle boat and down the river. This family-owned tour company has operated for 100 years. Our captain was the great grandson of the founder. This river tour could've been much like our raft tour (sigh) but it stops along the way were fascinating. The first stop was at the dog training facility of the late Susan Butcher, a multiple winner of the Iditarod cross country dog sled race. Born into privilege in Massachusetts, she was dyslexic and longed to live in the wilderness. In her short life she made a big impact on her sport. She died in 2006 of Leukemia and her husband, who met our boat at the riverbank, still trains here and gives demonstrations to tourists (us).
Our second stop at an Native fish camp was hosted by two lovely young women natives. They explained the culture and how their ancestors lived for 12,000 years until recently. They lived off the land, catching salmon, smoking it for preservation, trapping and hunting. We're so spoiled. Rick had me take a picture of him and our guide, a young woman who can clean fish! (Just like Rachel Creech! Hi guys!!)
We had no plan for dinner but heard raves about the "Alaska Salmon Bake". A converted school bus driven by Bobbie(another colorful character) took us to the compound which includes a theater and indoor-outdoor buffet. ALL YOU CAN EAT Crablegs = O! We tried our hardest to reduce their profit margin. Fire-grilled salmon, prime rib and cod, salads, beans, corn... Oh my. Behind us sat a group of military men who were there when we came and still there when we left. Bellies full, back to the hotel and....ZZZZZ.
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